The seaside town of Marina di Ascea is the perfect place to begin our course for a number of reasons. It is adjacent to the archeological park of Velia, the Latin name of the Greek city of Elea, founded about 535 BC by Greeks fleeing Persian expansion in Asia Minor. Elea was known in Greek times as the home of the philosophers Xenophanes, Parmenides, and Zeno. The very idea of proof, certainly of proof by contradiction, seems to originate with Parmenides. When Plato needed a teacher for Socrates, only Parmenides could fill the role. Parmenides was also a law giver for Elea; the fact that it survived as a Greek-speaking city into the Roman empire may testify to his wisdom. A course that emphasizes the evolution of human consciousness as a driving force in social development does well to begin in Elea.
In the last forty years, professional archeology has been well developed at Velia. The most striking discovery was the Porta Rosa, a great gate in the city walls along the ridge line above the city. Fortunately for us, however, Velia has remained undeveloped as a tourist attraction. In exploring it, we must constantly think for ourselves and ask what we are looking at.
The acropolis of Velia showing the terracing walls built by the Greeks, the ancient theater in the foreground, the medieval tower and the sea in the background. The exterior of the tower was built by the Anjevin rulers from France in the late 12th century. Inside, it incorporates a Norman tower of a century earlier.
The great Porta Rosa in the city walls was totally covered with earth until its discovery and excavation in the mid 1960's.
Parmenides, a bust found at Velia.
The transition from classical times into the Middle Ages stands before our eyes in Velia. The great tower rests on the foundations of a Hellenistic temple whose stones must have gone into the tower and other medieval structures on the acropolis. Only walls, foundations, and the theater remain from the ancient structures on the acropolis.
Besides its proximity to Elea - Velia, Ascea is important to us as the seat of the Fondazione Alario. This foundation was created in the late 1980's from the estate of Gaetanna Alario, the last of a land-owning family of the area. It has two objectives: (1) promotion of interest in classical culture, especially Eleatic, and (2) making it possible for young people to find meaningful careers in the area. In the mind of Franco Chirico, the lawyer who created the Fondazione from the estate, the essence of the two objectives is the same: education.
The Fondazione will be our host in Ascea. We will have a classroom in the Palazzo shown to the right and rooms in the guest house, which is just to the photographer's left. See the accommodations page for the Albergo Elea.
The Palazzo Alario on the Piazza Parmenide. The Palazzo was built in the late 18th century. Inside, it is completely modernized with offices, classrooms, and exhibition spaces.
Above, the tower seen from the side toward the sea. Right, the ancient water supply of Elea still works.
A final important reason for our stay in Ascea is the opportunity to visit a traditional family farm. Giulio Iannicelli, shown to the right milking one of his cows, is a law student at the University of Salerno. Instead of heading for the northern cities, he is determined to find ways to make the quality of the traditional products of the family farm appreciated in the market place. For example, they avoid stall milking because disease can spread easily in stalls. With field milking as shown here, there is little danger of mad cow or hoof and mouth disease.
The family also produces cheese, olive oil, dried fruits, wool, and lamb for market and virtually all of its own food, including grains. We will visit the farm and have lunch with the family. Giulio was recently elected to the city council of Ascea-Elea. You will have no trouble drawing him into discussion of the economic problems of his region.
Left: Brynne gives Giulio a hand with the milking. Rright: Francesca Mermati, archeologist from the University of Naples Federico II, instructs Haroon and Sarah in how to remove a Roman skeleton for further study. This entirely unanticipated experience can hardly be repeated, but something else unexpected and exciting will surely happen.
The milk is brought in, heated slightly, rennet added, and left to curdle. The next day, Giulio's mother converts the curdes by a little kneeding into mozzarella (left) or forms them into formaggio (below). She then turns to working up home-made pasta for our midday meal.
